Thursday, February 9th, 2006
It is the end of my first day in Abuja, Nigeria and I have seen so much in a single day that I feel like I have experienced and seen more than I originally thought possible for the entire trip. The visit really began last night when I arrived at the Abuja airport, and Howard and I were greeted by a man and woman who were very gracious and welcomed us to their city. As we collected our bags, we were escorted past several menacing soldiers, who seem like they were ready to tear apart our luggage - one assumes the couple had exchanged a favor to ensure we would avoid the experience. As the doors swung open to the airport waiting area, we were swarmed. 25-30 people embraced us with hugs, hand shakes, “Shaloms” and “You’re Welcome”. These were the Jews of Nigeria who had made the special trip to the airport to greet us, welcome us, and take us in their arms. It was unexpected and it was great. While they were happy to see me, they were really there to welcome Howard, “Their Rabbi” and for most, the only rabbi they have ever seen.
The group escorted us to our hotel, checked us in, and we had a brief welcoming meeting with some introductions. One man gave me a book he has written, “The Igbos: Jews in Africa?” and when I was unable to sleep between 3 and 5am that morning, I read the first couple chapters and it seems it’s going to be a challenge to determine just that. What I can tell you so far is whatever their background and ancestry, their knowledge of Jewish prayers, songs and rituals is excellent - probably better than mine - and their devotion to the faith is unending. This became apparent at Schararit (Morning Prayers) which was held at the main Abuja synagogue, a one room building on the end of a long, dusty dirt road full of potholes that weaved through homes and businesses in the outskirts of the city. Our car dodged speeding cars, motorcycle taxis, kids playing in the street, people transporting all sorts of goods by cart or on their head, not to mention herds of goats and cows.
The synagogue is on the property of a family, built by the father and community leader Habbakkuk. Most of the gathering took place outside though in the shade of a big cashew tree, with doves cooing above, and chickens pecking around below. As Bird Flu has just broken here, there is no playing with the chickens. The group gathers here every Saturday for Shabbat/Sabbath services and lunch, but everybody seems to have taken the day off work on this Thursday to be with their special guests.
Sights of Abuja
Habbakkuk and his wife have 5 kids, 4 daughters and 1 son, and while they were wary of me taking photos of them as they looked bored in services, they warmed up afterward when I broke out the crayons and stickers. Each of them spelled their name out in stickers on their shirts, and posed for pictures with their new goods.
We spent the afternoon traveling to two other one room synagogues, and met more locals and did the customary formal greetings, welcomes, etc. There seems to already be division amongst the organizers, and Howard has spent much of the day pleading with them to not be busy creating Orthodox and Reform groups, nor be thinking they need to side with only one outside group offering aide, but to stay united. The test seems to be coming when a shipment of books, computers and clothing will arrive in some months, and how the group will handle the equitable distribution.
It is hot, dusty and the electricity flicks on and off throughout the evening. I hear about government corruption, shortage of jobs, shortage of jobs that actually pay when they are supposed to, and despite cell phones and their annoying rings, few of the conveniences we are accustomed. But this community is all smiles, made and enjoyed two excellent meals in big quantity, sang and danced all evening, and sat around afterward into the evening talking and giggling. It’s really a lot of fun to be with them.
Morning Services under the Cashew Tree. Rabbi Howard Gorin. Elders from all over the country gather.
